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Whenever compiling a list of London’s finest restaurants, one might foresee renowned award-winning establishments. But, tucked prominently among these gastronomic giants is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying area of north London.

A Unexpected Accolade

The compact Turkish eatery, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a respected gastronomic guide. The honour has left the proprietors completely surprised.

“I am totally astonished,” remarks the proprietor, pointing to his family’s relentless work that led to their humble restaurant achieving such a lofty position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has maintained much of its original feel. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the food, and this restaurant more than delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a tender consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. As the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, nuttier and not overly sweet flavour.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, similar meals at high-end establishments can start at many times that amount.

The Creed of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I am truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to echo outside its own walls. “I believe a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the greater importance of this culinary achievement.